Rocky Top

 GSMNP Trailhead to Clingman's Dome

AT miles hiked - 200.0

AT miles to go - 1,993.0

Friday, October 2nd, Craig dropped me off at the trailhead for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park section just beyond Fontana Dam.  I was back on trail by 8:00 am.  My pack felt very heavy with 3 1/2 days of food and cold weather gear.  The day's hike was almost all climbing.  First was the 3 1/2 mile climb up Shuckstack Mountain to the old fire tower there.  The weather was sunny, but very cool and breezy all day.  The fire tower was pretty sketchy with hardly any railings and swaying in the wind.  I only climbed to the first landing before I decided the view from there would have to do.  My destination for the day was Mollie's Ridge shelter and total mileage was just under 11 miles.  It was another cold night, in the low 40s, but once I got bundled into my sleeping bag I was warm enough.

Entering the GSMNP.

At the open ledges on the climb to Shuckstack.

A view from the Shuckstack fire tower.

Chimney from the old ranger's cabin on Shuckstack.

Saturday was another very tough day.  Although I slept okay, my legs never fully recovered from all the climbing the previous day and my right ankle complained the entire way.  The day was again sunny and cool.  Lots of climbing again.  In fact, the hike through the Smokies began to feel like one endless climb.  The highlight of the day was making it to the summit of Rocky Top for some beautiful views.  Frankly though, by the time I made the summit I was so exhausted I didn't enjoy the views as much as I should have.  But I did take a break and ate some lunch before continuing on.  Rocky Top was followed by another climb over Thunderhead Mountain.  I made it to my planned stop at Derrick Knob shelter by late afternoon and enjoyed one of the better meals in my pack - a Mountain House Chili Mac.  Mileage for the day was just under 12.

Fall colors on the way up Rocky Top.

A view from "good ol' Rocky Top."

Exhausted after the Rocky Top climb.

Another view from Rocky Top.

Sunday was the finish at Clingman's Dome, the highest peak on the Appalachian Trail.  My original plan had been to hike all the way through the GSMNP and then resume my thru-hike next year.  However, as the day progressed and my ankle continued to complain the entire way, I decided a change of plans was in order.  I had planned to stop at Double Springs Gap shelter and then climb Clingman's on Monday morning on my way to Newfound Gap.  Having all morning to ponder on it as I continued climbing, I decided the 200 mile mark at Clingman's Dome would make a great stopping point - and more importantly an easier time and location for my brother to pick me up.  So I pushed on for a total of 10.5 miles to reach the parking area at Clingman's.  I didn't actually climb the last 0.3 miles to the observation tower at the summit as I decided I wanted to save that for a possible finishing location next year.  My current plan is to resume my hike somewhere north of the Smokies and then, when and if I make it to Katahdin, to flip back down and finish the Smokies going southbound back to Clingman's.

A Common Garter snake crossing the trail.

A view on the climb to Clingman's Dome.

Another view from Clingman's Dome.

And yet one more view from Clingman's.

Over the next several months, I plan to continue hiking and doing Summits on the Air activations until I resume my AT hike next spring.  Blog posts may be less frequent, but I'll still be updating my adventures.

"Rocky Top" - Osborne Brothers

Jacob's Ladder

Stecoah Gap, NC to Fontana Dam and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP)

AT miles hiked - 167.4

AT miles to go - 2,025.6

Wednesday, September 30th, was a beautiful day for hiking.  Craig dropped me at Stecoah Gap a few minutes after 8:00 am.  It was clear, breezy and quite chilly, probably in the low 50s.  I slack packed from Stecocah Gap to Yellow Creek Gap, just 7.67 miles.  The first part of the hike included a fairly steep, mile long climb to called "Jacob's Ladder."  I last hiked this section over 10 years ago with me son, Jacob, as we were training for our backpacking trip at the Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico.  Neither of us will ever forgot that day.  Soon after topping out of the climb, Jacob was a ways behind me when I heard him yelling.  As I turned back to see what the matter was, he came running in my direction.  One of us had somehow stirred up a ground nest of yellow jackets and he was being attacked by them.  He was stung something like eight times before we could escape them.  What a day!  Fortunately, no yellow jacket encounters this time through!  My right ankle was a little tender, but nothing too serious.  I had one partial view through the trees to a branch of Fontana lake.  The sky was clear all morning and the mountains looked crisp in the fall weather.  I arrived at Yellow Creek Gap at 12:30 and ate my sandwich while waiting for Craig to come pick me up. 

A view southeast from Stecoah Gap.

Fontana Lake in the distance.

Cody Gap.

Thursday, I slack packed again.  Craig and I dropped my truck at the trailhead entering the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) and then he drove me back to Yellow Creek Gap where I resumed my hike northbound.  It was quite cool and misty, but I had a climb right at the beginning, so warmed up quickly.  Before long, I had gained enough elevation to be above the mists and the sun was out, but most of the trail was in the trees with no views to speak of.  At the about the six mile mark I emerged from the forest into the parking area for the Fontana Village Resort Marina.  There was a beautiful Coke machine outside the restrooms and I made beeline for it, only to find it required exact change and I didn't have any.  In despair, I turned around and saw a sign advertising snacks, drinks, etc. at the Fontana Marina.  Hooray!  I walked down to the marina and bought a coke and a hotpocket for lunch.  Refreshed, I continue on my way.  I passed the famous Fontana Hilton shelter and then crossed the Fontana Dam.  Looming off to the right was a great view of Shuckstack mountain and the fire tower at the top - Friday morning's first introduction to the GSMNP.

Spider web in the sun.

Sun shining through the mist.

Coke machine with a halo - but it was lying to me.

The Fontana marina saved the day.

The Fontana Hilton shelter.

Crossing Fontana Dam.

Fontana Dam.

Shuckstack mountain awaits!

This evening, I'm dropping my truck at my brother Chris's home in Robbinsville and tomorrow I'm off to the Smokies!

"Jacob's Ladder" - Bruce Springsteen

Catch My Fall

 Tellico Gap, NC to Stecoah Gap, NC

AT miles hiked - 150.6

AT miles to go - 2,042.4

Friday, September 25th, I took a planned zero day.  The weather forecast called for rain off and on all day, so it turned out to be a good day for a zero.  After breakfast, I actually drove back home so I could pick up my colder weather down mummy bag.  It looks like the nighttime temps will be getting past the rating of my down quilt, especially in the Smokies, and I want to stay warm.  I had also purchased a pair of down "socks" or booties from a small gear company in Gainesville, GA which just happened to be right on my route home.  Hopefully, now I won't have to worry about cold feet at night.  I had lunch with Marci, did some grocery shopping, took the dogs for a walk and then headed back to the hostel in Franklin, NC.

Saturday morning, Sunsets drove me back to Tellico Gap and I was, again, headed northbound about 8:40.  As always, since the trailheads seem to be in gaps, the first mile plus was a climb - this time to Wesser Bald and the lookout tower located on the summit.  It was not a bad climb and, although it was quite cloudy and overcast, there was still a beautiful view to be had.  The rest of the hike was mostly down hill, several thousand feet of elevation, to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) and the bridge crossing the Nantahala river.  I arrived there just after 1:00 pm.  Since it was the weekend, the place was pretty busy and crowded with people.  I ordered a sandwich from the River's End restaurant and was waiting for my order when Sunsets arrived to shuttle me back to the hostel.  Dinner for the evening was some delicious Mexican food from the Mi Casa restaurant in Franklin.

Panoramic view from Wesser Bald lookout tower.

On top of Wesser Bald lookout tower.

Descending into the "land of the midday sun."

Fall colors appearing.

Crossing the bridge over the Nantahala River.

Sunday was another zero day so I could relocate my "base" to "Hawk's Hiker Haven" in Stecoah.  I left Chica & Sunsets mid-morning and drove to Stecoah where I got settled into my next hostel.  It's a small, one room cabin with a set of bunk beds, a futon, shower, toilet, sink, microwave, toaster and small fridge.  Not much in the way of luxuries, but just what a hiker needs to be comfortable.

Saying goodbye to Chica & Sunsets.

Hawk's Hiker Haven, Stecoah, NC.

My base for the next section.

Monday morning, September 28th, Craig, the owner of the hostel, shuttled me to the Stecoah Gap trailhead.  I had chosen to do this next section SOBO from Stecoah Gap, up over Cheoah Bald and down to the NOC so as to avoid the long, long, long climb out of the Nantahala River gorge.  It was still almost a six mile climb to the summit of Cheoah Bald.  I had planned to do this section of just under 14 miles as an overnight, staying in the Sassafras Gap shelter.  However, I was feeling strong during the climb, and with the forecast calling for rain later in the day and overnight, I decided I was going to do the whole section in one day.  After summiting Cheoah, I had a short break to eat a late lunch and then headed down.  Just short of the shelter, I had my first fall.  In the blink of an eye, I stepped on something wrong, rolled my right ankle, and landed on my hands and left knee.  My first thought was, "Maybe I'll be staying in the shelter tonight after all!"  But I was able to shake it off and after a few moments of pain and annoyance I was headed SOBO again.  At the side trail to the shelter, I tied my shoe tighter and downed a few vitamin-I (ibuprofen).  From the shelter, it was almost eight miles of steep down hill.  I arrived at the NOC for the second time about 6:15 pm, grabbed two cokes and a microwave biscuit sandwich from the General Store and waited for Craig to pick me up.  Total mileage for the day was 13.81 and I was glad to be in a cozy bed for the night.

My first sighting of a red Eastern Newt.

On the summit of Cheoah Bald.

Looking down into the Nantahala River gorge from the "Jump Up."

It rained all night and Tuesday turned out to be the perfect day to take another zero.  It rained heavily during the morning and off and on all day.  I drove home to do laundry and have lunch with Marci and was back at the hostel about 6:30 pm.

"Catch My Fall" - Billy Idol

Hotel California

 Deep Gap, NC to Tellico Gap, NC

AT miles hiked - 128.8

AT miles to go - 2,064.2

Saturday evening, September 19th, I drove to Franklin, NC and checked into Chica & Sunsets AT Hostel which I now affectionately think of as the "Hotel California."  If you are like me, once you check in to this place, you'll never want to leave.  Chica & Sunsets (Jen & Greg Seymour) thru-hiked the AT in 2017.  This year they opened their hostel in Franklin, NC and they sure know what they are doing.  It's a small hostel which can accomodate up to 4 hikers and has everything a hiker could want.  They have been fabulous hosts and I've thoroughly enjoyed my time here.

On Sunday morning, Sunsets dropped me off at the Deep Gap, NC trailhead.  The weather was perfect for hiking - cool and sunny and I made the 2.5 mile/1,000 foot climb to the summit of Standing Indian Mountain without stopping once.  What a difference the weather has made!  I'm no longer dreading the climbs.  My hike that day was about 8.5 miles and I arrived at Carter Gap Shelter where I made camp for the night.  I was joined there by "Jabez," a 2019 thru-hiker from Ohio who was back doing a section in this area.  He had also stayed the night before at Chica & Sunsets and was hiking southbound while I was hiking northbound.

On the summit of Standing Indian Mountain.

A view from Standing Indian Mountain.

With "Jabez" at Carter Gap Shelter.

A water source.

Sunday night the temperature dropped to 42 degrees and the wind was blowing strong high in the trees.  I was warm enough except for my feet which ended up with two pairs of wool socks and then stuck inside my down puffy in the footbox of my sleeping quilt.  I've been using a 20 degree quilt but I think I'll need to change to my colder weather sleeping bag before I get into the Smokies.  Monday morning Jabez and I parted ways and I was back on the trail northbound at 8:00 am.  It was quite breezy all day but still very pleasant hiking weather.  While on the trail I met two fellow Amateur Radio operators who were out for some Summits on the Air (SOTA) activations.  We had a pleasant chat before heading our respective ways.  The highlight of the day was the climb to the Albert Mountain fire tower and the 100 mile mark on the AT.  The last 0.2 miles was almost hand-over-hand, but the view from  the summit was fantastic.  I finished the day at the Long Branch Shelter for total hike of about 9 miles.

Panoramic view from the Albert Mountain fire tower.

With K2JB (Dean Blair) on the AT.

And KW4JM (Scott Carter) on the AT.

Hand-over-hand climb to Albert Mt.

100 miles of the AT completed!!

Tuesday was another beautiful day for hiking.  The weather the night before was night as cold and I managed to sleep off and on.  I was back on trail at 8:00 am for a hike just over 7 miles to Winding Stair Gap on NC highway 64.  Again the weather was sunny, cool and pleasant.  There was one decent view through the trees towards Franklin, NC but most of the hike was typical Southern Appalachian forest.  Sunsets arrived at Winding Stair Gap just as I was coming down the last log steps and shuttled me back to their wonderful hostel.  I showered, ate a frozen pizza, did laundry, resupplied at the grocery store and had a great burger from Motor Company Grill for dinner.  I had planned to take a zero day on Wednesday, but since the weather looking great and rain was moving in later in the week, I decided to hike another two days before zeroing.

I had a great night's sleep at the hostel and, after breakfast, Sunsets shuttled me back to Winding Stair Gap and I was on trail by 8:20 headed north.  I first had a 4.3 mile/3 Jolly Ranchers climb to the summit of Siler Bald.  The view was almost 360 degrees and I could see Wine Spring Bald and Wayah Bald which I would be climbing next.  I took a short break at the summit and ate "elevensies" before heading back down the trail.  I arrived at the summit of Wayah Bald and the historic lookout tower there about 3:00 and again enjoyed wonderful views and a nice break.  My final destination for the day was Wayah Shelter for a total of 11.5 miles hiked.  It looked like I was going to have the shelter to myself and, since rain was in the forecast, I set my sleep system up in the shelter, ate dinner and hung my bear bag.  Just as it got dark, a couple who were hiking SOBO arrived and kept me company for the night.  It rained off an on all night, but I slept the best I have on trail yet.

Trail near summit of Siler Bald.

View of Wayah Bald from Siler Bald.

Enjoying a break on Siler Bald.

At the historic Wayah Bald tower.

Taking a break at Wayah Bald.

Thursday was a wet morning, although at first it was mostly the water dripping from the trees.  I wasn't worried about getting wet though as I was headed back into town for the night.  I hiked 8.5 miles to Tellico Gap and didn't pass any other hikers until just before reaching the trailhead.  As I was hiking down to Burningtown Gap (the last gap before my destination) I saw a parked vehicle with a canopy set up just behind it.  I suddenly, irrationally, started getting excited thinkg maybe some "trail magic" was about to appear.  Alas, it was simply two locals who had camped there under the canopy.  Oh well.  I ate a candy bar instead and continued on my way.  About a mile before reaching Tellico Gap it started to rain heavily.  I was already pretty wet, but I pulled out my backpacking umbrella for the first time since March and managed to keep the rain out of my face.  I was pretty cold and wet by the time Sunsets arrived to pick me up but quickly warmed up after getting into the car.  Had a delicious burrito and chile poblano from a Mexican restaurant in town and looked forward to my zero day on Friday. 

It's not Cracker Barrel but it does the job.

Bed for the night at Wayah Shelter.

Trying to stay dry at Tellico Gap.

"Hotel California" - Eagles