Great Escape on a Trail: Hotel California

Deep Gap, NC to Tellico Gap, NC

AT miles hiked - 128.8

AT miles to go - 2,064.2

Saturday evening, September 19th, I drove to Franklin, NC and checked into Chica & Sunsets AT Hostel which I now affectionately think of as the "Hotel California." If you are like me, once you check in to this place, you'll never want to leave. Chica & Sunsets (Jen & Greg Seymour) thru-hiked the AT in 2017. This year they opened their hostel in Franklin, NC and they sure know what they are doing. It's a small hostel which can accomodate up to 4 hikers and has everything a hiker could want. They have been fabulous hosts and I've thoroughly enjoyed my time here.

On Sunday morning, Sunsets dropped me off at the Deep Gap, NC trailhead. The weather was perfect for hiking - cool and sunny and I made the 2.5 mile/1,000 foot climb to the summit of Standing Indian Mountain without stopping once. What a difference the weather has made! I'm no longer dreading the climbs. My hike that day was about 8.5 miles and I arrived at Carter Gap Shelter where I made camp for the night. I was joined there by "Jabez," a 2019 thru-hiker from Ohio who was back doing a section in this area. He had also stayed the night before at Chica & Sunsets and was hiking southbound while I was hiking northbound.

On the summit of Standing Indian Mountain.

A view from Standing Indian Mountain.

With "Jabez" at Carter Gap Shelter.

A water source.

Sunday night the temperature dropped to 42 degrees and the wind was blowing strong high in the trees. I was warm enough except for my feet which ended up with two pairs of wool socks and then stuck inside my down puffy in the footbox of my sleeping quilt. I've been using a 20 degree quilt but I think I'll need to change to my colder weather sleeping bag before I get into the Smokies. Monday morning Jabez and I parted ways and I was back on the trail northbound at 8:00 am. It was quite breezy all day but still very pleasant hiking weather. While on the trail I met two fellow Amateur Radio operators who were out for some Summits on the Air (SOTA) activations. We had a pleasant chat before heading our respective ways. The highlight of the day was the climb to the Albert Mountain fire tower and the 100 mile mark on the AT. The last 0.2 miles was almost hand-over-hand, but the view from the summit was fantastic. I finished the day at the Long Branch Shelter for total hike of about 9 miles.

Panoramic view from the Albert Mountain fire tower.

With K2JB (Dean Blair) on the AT.

And KW4JM (Scott Carter) on the AT.

Hand-over-hand climb to Albert Mt.

100 miles of the AT completed!!

Tuesday was another beautiful day for hiking. The weather the night before was night as cold and I managed to sleep off and on. I was back on trail at 8:00 am for a hike just over 7 miles to Winding Stair Gap on NC highway 64. Again the weather was sunny, cool and pleasant. There was one decent view through the trees towards Franklin, NC but most of the hike was typical Southern Appalachian forest. Sunsets arrived at Winding Stair Gap just as I was coming down the last log steps and shuttled me back to their wonderful hostel. I showered, ate a frozen pizza, did laundry, resupplied at the grocery store and had a great burger from Motor Company Grill for dinner. I had planned to take a zero day on Wednesday, but since the weather looking great and rain was moving in later in the week, I decided to hike another two days before zeroing.

I had a great night's sleep at the hostel and, after breakfast, Sunsets shuttled me back to Winding Stair Gap and I was on trail by 8:20 headed north. I first had a 4.3 mile/3 Jolly Ranchers climb to the summit of Siler Bald. The view was almost 360 degrees and I could see Wine Spring Bald and Wayah Bald which I would be climbing next. I took a short break at the summit and ate "elevensies" before heading back down the trail. I arrived at the summit of Wayah Bald and the historic lookout tower there about 3:00 and again enjoyed wonderful views and a nice break. My final destination for the day was Wayah Shelter for a total of 11.5 miles hiked. It looked like I was going to have the shelter to myself and, since rain was in the forecast, I set my sleep system up in the shelter, ate dinner and hung my bear bag. Just as it got dark, a couple who were hiking SOBO arrived and kept me company for the night. It rained off an on all night, but I slept the best I have on trail yet.

Trail near summit of Siler Bald.

View of Wayah Bald from Siler Bald.

Enjoying a break on Siler Bald.

At the historic Wayah Bald tower.

Taking a break at Wayah Bald.

Thursday was a wet morning, although at first it was mostly the water dripping from the trees. I wasn't worried about getting wet though as I was headed back into town for the night. I hiked 8.5 miles to Tellico Gap and didn't pass any other hikers until just before reaching the trailhead. As I was hiking down to Burningtown Gap (the last gap before my destination) I saw a parked vehicle with a canopy set up just behind it. I suddenly, irrationally, started getting excited thinkg maybe some "trail magic" was about to appear. Alas, it was simply two locals who had camped there under the canopy. Oh well. I ate a candy bar instead and continued on my way. About a mile before reaching Tellico Gap it started to rain heavily. I was already pretty wet, but I pulled out my backpacking umbrella for the first time since March and managed to keep the rain out of my face. I was pretty cold and wet by the time Sunsets arrived to pick me up but quickly warmed up after getting into the car. Had a delicious burrito and chile poblano from a Mexican restaurant in town and looked forward to my zero day on Friday.